Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Venelles and lanterns

Some places in Bretagne have, about them, an air of romance.  Morlaix is such a place.  Its prominent church has spires rising straight out of a fairytale. 

Overhead a graceful granite viaduct rises so high above the town it casts arched shadows over the many pretty half timbered houses beneath it. 

A walk along the second level of the grand viaduct reveals arch after disappearing arch leading off onto viewing platforms, perfect for peering from on high over the overhanging facades of the pretty town.   

Winding down the narrow pedestrian venelles to St Matthew's church we came upon an unexpected and ancient 14c treasure of the French Church, the statue of Our Lady of the Sea, which when closed shows Mary suckling Jesus, but when opened reveals a triptych of scenes from the life of Christ.  So small and and so very precious.  

One of the flower ladies decorating the altar went to great trouble to seek out sufficient light, first by candle, then by lamp, to enable us to take our photos.  So kind.  

On we went to one of the definitive historic homes in Morlaix:  Duchess Anne's house: remarkable in so many ways.  Its living space rises high and tall overhead, topped with glass which allows in light as if a lit lantern had been placed in the rafters, creating a unique architectural feature specific to this town which has been called the 'lantern house' effect.  

The entire living space is suffused with a soft glow.

Morlaix's romantic features don't stop there. Oak steps set into a bulge in the back wall are pegged all the way up and around an exquisitely carved central wooden post, rising three floors.  

At each level a little pont-alee, a charming wooden balcony bridge, joins the back rooms to the front of the house, allowing for easy connections.  Carved saints and secular figures decorate each level and it is all so utterly charming.  

It is so easy to imagine a time when the streets of Morlaix was rich with prosperous merchants and captains of the sea.    


Morlaix



Graceful granite viaduct overlooks Morlaix


Arch after disappearing arch


Our Lady of the Sea



Lantern feature





Pont-alee, wooden balcony bridge




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