Terps, borgs and the pink granite coast: Gibbets, dungeons and disillusion

One of the prettiest villages we visited in the western Finistere was Guerlesquin (gair-less-ken) which today is noteworthy as a petite cite de caractère and well deserves its classification.

Guerlesquin historic centre harks back to the ancient regime operating in France until it was overthrown by the French Revolution. The square held the functions of the manorial administration and justice was meted out on Mondays.

Offenders heading for the hereafter were promptly directed to the gibbet in the Place de la Liberte: off with their heads.

While offenders to be imprisoned were thrown into the icy dungeons in the dark basement of the Seigneuriale prison called the Presidial, built in the heart of the square in 1640 by the Lord of Guerlesquin, a commander of Richelieu's guards.

This prison, today, is a very pretty square fortress-like building with circular watchtowers, called bartizans, sited on each corner of the building. It was saved from destruction, classified as an historical monument, then set to function as the town hall as late as 1965.

There were market days aplenty in Guerlesquin, and the little granite town became famous far and wide for its horse fairs. A stone corn measure dating from 1539 is all that remains of the original market hall, this to measure local grains for taxes paid to the local seigneur. The hollowed-out measures were supposed to represent portions of a bushel, but the measuring stone came to be called Ar Men Gaou, the Liar Stone--as it measured too generously, of course, in favour of the tax collector.

Which was just another trigger, another of the disillusions, that lead to the revolution by the people, of the people. for the people.

Ninety lime trees were planted in the park called the Champ de Bataille, the Battlefield, and here, though no battles have ever been recorded, local lords were trained in the militia. Today, an old stone fountain of Saint Ener has been re-sited in the gardens of the park.

The church of St Tenenan replaced one to St Ener in the 16th century and its pretty bellower is all that remains of the original. Beams on the walls of the porch bear remarkable wooden statues of the twelve apostles, saved from the earlier chapel to St Ener.

An historic little village, Guerlesquin, filled with bits of history that have not yet been lost.